Andalucia Life, Towns, Villages and Cities

A Trip to Castellar de la Frontera

Castellar de la Frontera is only a 20 minute drive from the coast. It is a castle that has been in continuous use since it was built in the 11th C and encloses the old town. Even today it would be a formidable task to 'take' this town.

It was built on its 200 metre high hill overlooking the valley of the Rio Guadarranque (a reservoir since the 1960's) and it has stunning views towards Gibraltar, Gaucin and Casares.

To get there travel down the A7 to San Roque and take the road towards Jimena de la Frontera for 10k to a junction where you take a left turn that takes you up a switchback road 8 kilometres to the fortress itself. Park near tourist information.

The area of the castle has been permanently occupied first by Neanderthal Man, then by Cro Magnon Man and then the Iberians. Apparently ignored by the Romans it was taken by the Moors who in the 11th Century started building the fortress. It was briefly retaken for Christian Spain by Fernando III in the early 13th Century, retaken by the Moors and finally conquered by Juan II in the early 15th Century.

In 1983 the Spanish Government declared Castellar de la Frontera a 'Historical and Artistic Monument' and invested a large amount of money to restore the castle and village. Restoration is still being carried out.

You enter the castle up a steep cobbled track and pass through a typical fortified, 'Z' bend gateway. The buildings over and around the gate were the original royal apartments. From there a maze of narrow alleys and steep steps meander through the town. Here and there you will see tiled signs 'Casa Rural'. These are the buildings that have been renovated and are now used as holiday accommodation. Towards the top of the town is a very pleasant restaurant that has an excellent Spanish menu; the "Cordonuiz" (Quail) was superb, and is attached to a Casa Rural Hotel.

Lower down you may come across a small courtyard with a bodega that serves very dry, cold, sherry at tables beneath a massive, old grape vine. You may also come across one of the original lookout ports set in the outer wall as shown on this months front cover. From there you have fantastic views over the surrounding area and may see the eagles, vultures and buzzards that wheel in the sky above the valleys on both sides of the castle. I use the word "may" deliberately. Part of the charm of Castellar is its lack of town planning. If you do get lost then head up at every opportunity and you will always emerge on the road that leads back to the gate.