Olive Oil from Spain the worlds leading producer and exporter of olive oil

Over 5,000 years ago Neolithic man in the Iberian peninsula discovered that the fruit of the wild azebuche tree was edible. They started to select particular trees to grow in different climatic conditions and geographical locations and then refined their choices to include only those trees that were most productive. Today there are 260 varieties of this tree, the olive, in Spain.

Spain is the worlds leading producer and exporter of olive oil and there are nine registered denominations, five in Andalucia alone. As well as 260 varieties of olive allowing the same number of single variety oils, there are any number of possible blends to combine the flavours and qualities of the olives, just like the finest wines. Individual olives may produce oil that is sweet and mild with low acidity or oil with great strength and bitterness and higher acidity.

In cooking, olive oil is now considered a basic ingredient. The first, cold, pressing (extra virgin) produces an oil that retains all the aroma and flavour of fresh fruits, perfect on salads, in sauces and in dressings. You can also drizzle the oil on smoked meats and fish. When used as a dressing the oil enhances the flavour, aroma and colour of the dish. It performs the same function when used in low temperature, slow cooked casseroles, particularly if they include pulses and vegetables. When used in frying it forms a thin protective covering around the ingredient preventing oil being absorbed and helping to retain the juices. As if that were not enough olive oil, in small doses, is actually good for you.

Which oil to buy seems to be the only problem, especially when faced with the bewildering array on supermarket shelves. This month and next we will look at two, both from the same cortijo, one a single variety oil and one a more expensive blend, both have very low acidity at 0.1% and 0% cholesterol.

The oil, 'Castillo de Tabernas' is produced by the Cortijo 'Olivar del Desierto' in Almeria. There are two types, Picual, which is an unblended oil made from the Picual olive and Coupage which is a blend of three oils, 60% Picual, 20% Hojiblanca and 20% Arbequina.

Last month we introduced two fine olive oils produced by Castillo Tabernas, the Picual and the Coupage.

The Picual is manufactured from a single type of olive, the Picual, and is a light greeny yellow colour. Its flavour is very 'fruity'. With an acidity of less than 0.1% it has no harsh after taste at all. It is ideal for salad dressings and in recipes such as gambas pil pil where the flavour of the oil has to compete with and enhance other strongly flavoured ingredients.

The Coupage, although a blend of three olives, the Picual, Hojiblanca and Arbequina, is slightly more expensive and an altogether more refined taste. The oil is slightly thinner than the Picual, still with a fruity taste but somehow more subtle. Again the acidity is less than 0.1% so there is no after taste. This oil is ideal again for salad dressings and for cooking finely flavoured dishes like Merluza a la Vasca where the subtle, different, flavours of the ingredients are enhanced but not swamped by the flavour of the oil.

Perhaps the best way to judge the oils is to try them yourself.