A Drive in the Country, El Colmenar and Cortes de la Frontera

Within a few kilometres of the coast you leave all the new building and the vast majority of the traffic behind and find yourself in the real Andalucia, a land of high peaks, limestone karst, mixed coniferous and deciduous forests and wide open skies. This drive of about 130 kilomteres can take all day if you stop for lunch at any of the ventas you will come across.

Start at the roundabout at Sabinillas and take the road to Manilva. Just before Manilva take the by pass around the village and then go straight across the toll road bridge and, at the roundabout, straight ahead for Gaucin. On your left will be the wind turbines, majestically revolving in the wind, very definitely a late 20th Century innovation. Just past the turbines is the site of Lacipo, the Phoenician/Roman town dating to around 300 BC, it makes you think doesn’t it? At the Casares junction go straight on. You will be returning down this section of road. On your right is the massive limestone outcrop known as Crestellina, the home of griffon vultures and various eagles. You will then drop down into the valley of the Rio Genal and then across a bridge. On the right is the first opportunity to stop and stretch your legs. The river is a locally well known paddling, swimming spot. The banks are covered with wild mint that release a wonderful fragrance as you pass by.

You now have the long switchback climb up to Gaucin compensated for by the opening views all the way to Gibraltar and Africa as you ascend. As you enter Gaucin you will see the oldest part of this famous white village clinging to the rock buttress on your right with its ruined castle at the top. In Gaucin you will reach a ‘T’ junction where you turn left to a second ‘T’ junction with a garage opposite, turn left again. This is the main Algeciras to Ronda road and on your left are the best views of the Genal valley with Crestellina across the other side. After 2 kilometres you will see the road to Colmenar on your right.

This 11 kilometre stretch winds down into a valley that becomes ever more lush, even in summer the trees and shrubs are a vibrant green fed by the mighty Rio Guadiaro. On the far side of the river you will see the pretty village of El Colmenar otherwise known as Estacion de Gaucin. The Algeciras to Ronda railway line follows the valley of the Rio Guadiaro and so qualifies as one of the most scenic railway journeys in the world. The station at El Colmenar does not let the side down. It is all a village station should be, white buildings, colourful flower beds and a proper level crossing. In the square overlooking the station there are two restaurants both of which are worth trying.

Continuing across the level crossing you then enter the north eastern extremity of the Parque Natural de los Alcornacales. The mixed deciduous forest closes in on all sides with occasional views of the limestone karst towards Ubrique. Along this section you will come to numerous parking and picnic areas, some alongside the streams that flow off the mountains to your left. Smell the air, that particular aroma of herbs is the essence of Andalucia. Until the end of June this whole area is a mass of wild flowers. The heaths will be flowering in June providing splashes of vibrant mauve, as will the wild and field gladiolus. Other bulbs to look out for are the Spanish and Ronda Iris and the summer snowflake, all in season until July. In early June you should also be treated to the last of the poppies, including patches of the opium poppy, and all types of cistus shrubs with their delicate white and purple flowers. Keep your eyes open for the small fincas, some with thatched cattle sheds, not to mention the horses, cattle and goats that wander across the road.

You emerge from the forest above the village of Cortes de la Frontera and the road takes you through this attractive town with its small bull ring and then down into the valley again where you cross the railway line near a station that is equally as attractive as the one at El Colmenar.

The countryside changes again as you wind up the valley becoming much more open with stunning views towards Ronda and the rugged peaks of the aptly named Sierra Blanquilla to the north.

You rejoin the Algeciras to Ronda road at its highest point, turning right at the junction. Here you will find a mirador where you can park to enjoy the scenery. This month’s front cover was actually taken from this point. Continuing towards Gaucin you will be able to fully appreciate the beautiful Genal valley on your left that opens up as you approach Gaucin.

At the garage in Gaucin turn left and retrace your route. When you reach the Casares turn, if you fancy, rather than going back through Manilva, turn left. Casares is another white village perched on a bastion of rock. The road takes you around Casares and along a ridge towards the sea. You will have tantalising glimpses of the Mediterranean before you suddenly crest a small rise and there, in front of you is the great sweep of bay from Alcaidesa right the way round to Marbella. Los Reales is on your immediate left and in the distance you will see La Concha above Banus which makes a fitting and dramatic end to this journey. You will regain the A7 at Marina Casares.